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Bruno Giacosa

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44°43′19″N 8°07′01″E / 44.7219035°N 8.1170588°E / 44.7219035; 8.1170588

Three bottles from Bruno Giacosa: a 1990 Barolo Falletto Riserva, a 1999 Barolo Le Rocche del Falletto and 2001 Barbaresco Santo Stefano di Neive.

Bruno Giacosa (died 21 January 2018)[1] was an Italian wine producer from the village Neive in the Langhe region (Piemonte), who produced a number of Barbaresco and Barolo wines, as well as bottlings of Arneis, Barbera, Dolcetto and a sparkling wine. Wines produced from owned vineyards are bottled under the label Azienda Agricola Falletto (di Bruno Giacosa), wines from bought grapes or from grapes from leased vineyards under the label Casa Vinicola Bruno Giacosa. In terms of the production of Nebbiolo, Giacosa was considered a traditionalist. He has been described as the "Genius of Neive".[2][3]

History

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Initially in the tradition of commerciante,[2] Carlo Giacosa and his son Mario Giacosa preceded the third-generation Bruno Giacosa (b. 1929), who began working in the family business from the age of 15, having left school during World War II, and began to learn their craft.[3]

Making wine only from purchased fruit from select vineyards, Giacosa worked to obtain what he deemed the best grapes available from an established network of growers dedicated to producing quality.[2][4] During the 1960s Giacosa was considered one of the three significant wine producers of Barbaresco, along with Gaja and Produttori del Barbaresco,[5] who demonstrated "the full potential of [Barbaresco]".[6]

The Giacosa bottlings of Arneis also attracted attention during the 1970s as one of only two producers making it, along with Vietti, and helped bring the grape back from near extinction.[7][8]

Over decades, Giacosa's reputation for perfectionism became continuously reaffirmed,[2][9] and the wines "stylistically consistent and painstakingly crafted".[10] Known for his exacting standards,[11] Giacosa will not bottle any wine if the vintage does not meet his scrutinous quality standards,[3] and the vintage will be sold off in bulk as wine that is termed sfuso.[2] Decanter estimates Bruno Giacosa among Italy's First Growths.[9] The winery decided in 2013 that it would not be bottling its top reds from the 2010 vintage.[12]

From 1990, Giacosa worked with the oenologist Dante Scaglione, who remained with the firm for 16 years. In 2008, the oenologist Giorgio Lavagna was employed as the successor.[11][13][14][15] In May 2011, Dante Scaglione communicated his return as oenologist to Giacosa's winery.[16]

Bruno Giacosa suffered a stroke in January 2006, which left him unable to work at the winery, though he made a full recovery.[4][11] Gradually, Giacosa's daughter Bruna Giacosa has taken over an increased leadership role of the firm.

In recognition of his achievements, the University of Gastronomic Sciences of Bra in Piedmont gave Bruno Giacosa an honorary degree in 2012.[17]

Production

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The Bruno Giacosa estate today encompasses 20 hectares (49 acres) of vineyards, producing about 400,000 bottles per year. In infrequent vintages that are deemed exceptional, a Riserva is produced, which is given a red label.

Vineyards lie in Asili and Rabajà in the Barbaresco zone, in La Morra and Serralunga.[4] Barbaresco Santo Stefano, which became famous after Bruno began bottling it from the 1964 vintage, was produced from grapes grown by Italo Stupino at Castello di Neive. As of the 2012 vintage, the wine will no longer be bottled by Bruno Giacosa, as the firm moves towards an estate-only strategy for its top wines.[17]

The oenological philosophy has been described as "updated traditional".[2] Maceration on skins may last up to thirty days, though not past fifty as in extreme traditional practices. Botti (traditional 50hL casks) are used for aging, but in French oak rather than Slavonian.[2]

Azienda Agricola Falletto

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A bottle of 2001 Bruno Giacosa Nebbiolo d'Alba.

The range of wines from vineyards owned by Bruno Giacosa.

  • Barbaresco DOCG Asili
    Barolo DOCG Falletto
    Barolo DOCG Le Rocche del Falletto
    Barolo DOCG Vigna Croera
    Barbera d’Alba DOC Falletto
    Dolcetto d’Alba DOC Falletto

Casa Vinicola Bruno Giacosa

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The range of wines sourced from the vineyards of growers that are Giacosa's traditional collaborators.

  • Barbaresco DOCG Santo Stefano di Neive
    Nebbiolo d’Alba DOC
    Nebbiolo d’Alba DOC Valmaggiore
    Dolcetto d’Alba DOC
    Dolcetto d’Alba DOC Basarini
    Roero Arneis DOCG
    Classic Method "Spumante" Extra Brut

References

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  1. ^ "Barolo and Barbaresco legend Bruno Giacosa dies". Archived from the original on 22 January 2018. Retrieved 23 January 2018.
  2. ^ a b c d e f g Belfrage, Nicolas (1999). Barolo to Valpolicella, The Wines of Northern Italy. New York: Faber & Faber. pp. 88–89. ISBN 9781840009019.
  3. ^ a b c O'Keefe, Kerin, The Wine News (October/November 2006). Barbaresco Breaks Rank Archived 2010-07-20 at the Wayback Machine
  4. ^ a b c O'Keefe, Kerin, The Wine News (October/November 2008). Safeguarding Barolo Archived 2010-11-29 at the Wayback Machine
  5. ^ Brook, Stephen, Decanter.com (1 May 2003). "Brilliance in Barbaresco". Archived from the original on 23 September 2015. Retrieved 25 October 2015.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: multiple names: authors list (link)
  6. ^ Robinson, Jancis, ed. (1999). "Barbaresco". The Oxford Companion to Wine (2nd ed.). winepros.com.au. Archived from the original on 12 October 2009.
  7. ^ Prial, Frank J., The New York Times: Wine Talk (8 September 1999). A Renaissance for Ancient Grapes Archived 2016-03-05 at the Wayback Machine
  8. ^ Gaiter, Dorothy; Brecher, John, The Wall Street Journal (13 June 2008). Wine Like Grandma Used to Be [permanent dead link]
  9. ^ a b Baudains, Richard, Decanter.com (13 March 2007). Italy's Classed Growths[permanent dead link]
  10. ^ Baudains, Richard, Decanter.com (23 May 2006). Beyond Barolo[permanent dead link]
  11. ^ a b c Ramsdale, Suzannah, Decanter.com (10 June 2009). Bruno Giacosa will not bottle 2006 vintage Archived 2009-06-14 at the Wayback Machine
  12. ^ Gibb, Rebecca (31 July 2013). "No 2010 Barolo from Bruno Giacosa". Wine-Searcher.com. Archived from the original on 27 February 2014. Retrieved 13 December 2013.
  13. ^ Benitez, Tina, Wine Spectator (9 October 2008). Winemaker Talk: Giorgio Lavagna Archived 2010-08-09 at the Wayback Machine
  14. ^ Suckling, James, Wine Spectator (7 March 2008). New Winemaker for the Great Bruno Archived 2012-06-03 at the Wayback Machine
  15. ^ Ziliani, Franco, VinoWire.com (4 March 2008). Change of Guard at Bruno Giacosa: winemaker Dante Scaglione parts ways with historic winery Archived 30 August 2010 at the Wayback Machine
  16. ^ VinoWire.com (21 May 2011). Dante Scaglione to return to Bruno Giacosa Archived 30 May 2011 at the Wayback Machine
  17. ^ a b Tenti, Paolo (26 September 2013). "Pioneering Precision in Piedmont". Wine-Searcher.com. Archived from the original on 22 January 2014. Retrieved 13 December 2013.
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