Initium chartae ferculorum popinae Beauvilliers restaurateur anno 1803, in F. W. Blagdon, Paris as it was and as it is (1803) pp. 444-452
Anno 1782popinam restaurativam inter primos condidit sub suo nomine Beauvilliers restaurateur. Anno 1788le plus élégant des restaurateurs ("popinariorum elegantissimus") describitur, sed apud quem omnes res maiore pretio venditabantur: apud eum congregavisse militares laudationibus distinctos, mercatores locupletiores, iuvenes liberales Lutetiam visitantes, lusores dispendiosos mulierculis elegantissimis circumdatos. Sub popina cauponamTaverne Angloise ("taberna Anglica") appellatam constituerat, in triclinia plura divisam, ubi privatim inter amicos cenare cervesiasque et aquas fortes bibere licuit.[1]
Beauvilliers réunit long-temps beaucoup de monde, mais il ne marqua jamais comme cuisinier; il était plein d'attentions pour les personnes qui venaient dîner chez lui, et parcourait sans cesse ses salles pour s'assurer si ses dîneurs étaient contents. Au moindre doute il faisait remplacer un plat par un autre, descendait dans les cuisines, grondait bruyamment l'ouvrier négligent. A la restauration, Beauvilliers fut tourné en ridicule, parce qu'il voulut rempliir ses fonctions en habit à la française, l'épée au côté. Mais, à l'épée et à l'habit près, il serait à désirer que MM. les restaurateurs d'aujourd'hui en fissent autant.[2]
Antonius Beauvilliers, L'Art du cuisinier (1814): titulus
The book is a great landmark in the history of the kitchen. Its receipts are classical, and show precisely the position of the art on the fall of the French Empire. Beauvillers and Carême may be taken as representative men at the head of two opposite schools of cookery.[3]
We should say that Beauvilliers was more remarkable for judgment, and Carême for invention; that if Beauvilliers exhausted the old world of art, Carême discovered a new one; that Beauvilliers rigidly adhered to the unities, and Carême snatched a grace beyond them; that there was more à plomb in the touch of Beauvilliers, more curious felicity in Carême's; that Beauvilliers was great in an entrée, and Carême sublime in an entremet; that we would bet Beauvilliers against the world for a fricandeau, but should wish Carême to prepare the sauce were we under the necessity of eating up an elephant.[4]
1788 : [F. M. Mayeur de Saint-Paul], Tableau du nouveau Palais-Royal (Lutetiae: Maradan) vol. 1 pp. 72-74
1793 : [Richard Twiss], A Trip to Paris in July and August 1792 (Londinii: William Lane) pp. 114-115
1803 : "Restaurateurs" in F. W. Blagdon, Paris as it was and as it is, illustrative of the effects of the Revolution (Londinii: C. & R. Baldwin, 1803) vol. 1 pp. 438-460
"The Calling of Cooking: chefs and their publics since the Revolution" in Stephen Mennell, "All Manners of Food" (Oxoniae: Blackwell, 1985) pp. 134-165
Rebecca Spang, The Invention of the Restaurant: Paris and modern gastronomic culture (2a ed. Cantabrigiae Massachusettensium: Harvard University Press, 2020) pp. 140, 172-191, 204