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Contramar

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Contramar
The restaurant's wordmark mixing its name with a shape that resembles a fish.
The entry behind multiple parked cars.
The restaurant's entrance in 2025
Map
Interactive map of Contramar
Restaurant information
Established14 August 1998; 27 years ago (1998-08-14)
OwnerGabriela Cámara
Food typeSeafood
RatingBib Gourmand (Michelin Guide, 2024)
LocationDurango 200, Roma Norte, Cuauhtémoc, Mexico City, 06700, Mexico
Coordinates19°25′10.5″N 99°10′01.8″W / 19.419583°N 99.167167°W / 19.419583; -99.167167
ReservationsRecommended
Other informationNearest station:
Mexico City Metrobús Line 1 Durango bus station
Websitecontramar.com.mx/

Contramar[a] is a seafood restaurant in Roma Norte, Mexico City, Mexico, near Fuente de Cibeles. It is owned by the restaurateur Gabriela Cámara, who opened it in 1998 on Durango Avenue. Her aim was to recreate the experience of dining at a beachside palapa.

The establishment serves à la carte dishes and has received critical acclaim particularly for its tuna tostada. Its signature red-and-green pescado a la talla has been widely imitated by other restaurants worldwide. Contramar has attracted celebrities and international diners, received multiple culinary distinctions, and was the subject of the 2019 Netflix documentary – A Tale of Two Kitchens. In 2025, the restaurant received a Bib Gourmand recommendation in the first Michelin Guide covering restaurants in Mexico.

Description

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Contramar serves à la carte seafood.[2] The restaurant created a supply platform that allows patrons to verify the traceability of the fish. According to El Economista, some seafood, including clams, is sourced from Puerto Libertad, Sonora, on Tuesdays, Fridays and Saturdays.[3]

The oldest plate on Contramar's menu is pescado zarandeado, served since its opening.[4] Other items served include Mexican-style seafood dishes as well as international dishes, like chowder or Tiradito.[5]

A fish fillet split in half, with one side topped with a parsley-based sauce and the other side covered in marinade.
The fish dish pescado a la talla was popularized by Contramar

Two signature dishes at Contramar are the pescado a la talla (or red-and-green grilled snapper) and the tuna tostada. The former consists of a Northern red snapper fillet split in half, with one side topped with a parsley-based sauce and the other in adobo sauce.[6] The tostada is prepared with thin slices of raw tuna, leek and avocado slices, and chipotle mayonnaise, served on maize toasted tortillas.[2] At its core, the dish is tuna tartare on a crisp base.[7]

The pescado a la talla is traditionally accompanied by black beans and tortillas, allowing it to be eaten as a taco.[1][7] Its recipe has been adapted by restaurants worldwide due to the versatility of the red and green sauces. For instance, at Kalaya in Philadelphia, chef Nok Suntaranon adapts the dish with mackerel, jalapeño and chive to recreate the green sauce and a reddish coconut sauce mixed with ingredients from southern Thailand. Other adaptations replace the fish with chicken, or incorporate variations like tomatoes or ginger sauces.[6]

Contramar has an open kitchen and a high ceiling.[8][9] The restaurant's interior design resembles a palapa, with a large hand-carved dining in the middle of the room as late as 2016.[1][10] The restaurant also features a Poemario (anthology of poems), a blackboard displaying sea-themed poems by writers such as Carlos Pellicer Cámara, Rosario Castellanos, José Emilio Pacheco, and Juana Inés de la Cruz.[3]

History

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In 1996, while vacationing with a former boyfriend in Zihuatanejo, Gabriela Cámara conceived the idea of opening a restaurant in Mexico City that evoked the experience of dining in a beachside palapa.[2][11][12] She states her goal was to offer the city's residents a way to enjoy that atmosphere if they were unable to travel to a coast.[7]

Cámara and her associates acquired an inexpensive former refrigeration parts store in the emerging Colonia Roma. The ceiling was covered with straw mats and fish skeletons were painted on to the walls by Carlos Pellicer López (nephew of the Mexican poet Pellicer Cámara).[2][12]

Contramar opened on 14 August 1998 on Durango Street, and is near the Durango bus station and the Fuente de Cibeles.[3][13][14] Initially, passerby's were invited to eat and pay only if they liked the food.[3] For a time, the restaurant employed only male waiters, several of whom had previous legal troubles.[15]

Contramar has drawn a celebrity clientele that includes artists, politicians, musicians, and international visitors.[16][17] A sister restaurant, the Entremar, was opened in the city's Polanco neighborhood to reduce customers' wait times.[18] A location called Cantina Contramar Las Vegas, located at the Fontainebleau Las Vegas on the Las Vegas Strip, is scheduled to open in 2026.[19]

Reception

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The tuna tostada served at Contramar received praise from food critics

Food critics recommend reservations,[13][20] noting that the restaurant is often full at lunch, especially on Fridays.[21][22]

Julia Moskin of The New York Times noted that the dishes are known for their simplicity and refinement, and the restaurant is representative of a family dining experience on a beach vacation.[10] Michael Parker Stainback, writing for Afar, praised the food and service at Contramar, noting that the restaurant is often full.[21] Similarly, Mariana Camacho from The Infatuation added that reservations are often made months in advance due to the restaurant's popularity.[23]

Ana Paula Tovar of El País recommended the meringue with strawberries or fig tart for dessert.[2] A reviewer for Condé Nast Traveler compared the experience to eating at The River Cafe in London, but dressed in a Tulum attire.[24] Writing for Bon Appétit, Scarlett Lindeman described the menu as a healthy dining option in the city.[25]

Critics have praised the tuna tostada, describing it as "well-executed",[22] "iconic",[26] and a "must-try" dish.[13]

Contramar and Cala in San Francisco, both owned by Cámara, are the subject of the 2019 Netflix documentary A Tale of Two Kitchens. Regarding the experience of opening a sister restaurant in the United States, she said: "Opening a Mexican restaurant in the United States is a paradox no matter how you look at it [...] there is a lot of curiosity and respect for authentic Mexican food. On the other hand, there is a larger culture that despises Mexicans".[10]

Contramar received in 2019 the Best Dining Room Service award from the México Gastronómico guide and Best Service in Mexico from Travel + Leisure magazine.[27][28] In 2023, Contramar was voted the tenth best international restaurant by Food & Wine magazine readers.[29] It received a Bib Gourmand from the Michelin Guide in 2024; the inspectors described the spot as enchanting and recommended the polbo á feira.[30][31]

See also

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Notes

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  1. ^ transl. "Against the sea"[1]

Citations

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References

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  1. ^ a b c Bernstein, Nils (9 June 2016). "Gabriela Cámara Will Now School You on the Art of Mexican Grilling". Bon Appétit. Archived from the original on 26 January 2025. Retrieved 23 August 2025.
  2. ^ a b c d e Tovar, Ana Paula (10 May 2024). "Contramar creó la tostada de atún más famosa de México" [Contramar created Mexico's most famous tuna tostada]. El País (in Spanish). Archived from the original on 2 September 2024. Retrieved 24 August 2025.
  3. ^ a b c d De Anda Corral, J. Francisco (9 September 2023). "Contramar, 25 años cautivando paladares contra viento y marea" [Contramar, 25 years delighting palates through thick and thin]. El Economista (in Spanish). Archived from the original on 14 May 2025. Retrieved 26 August 2025.
  4. ^ Limón, Isaac (5 April 2023). "Contramar, un ícono que nació para quedarse" [Contramar, an icon born to stay]. El Financiero (in Spanish). Archived from the original on 10 June 2025. Retrieved 26 August 2025.
  5. ^ "Contramar". The World's 50 Best Restaurants. Archived from the original on 28 March 2025. Retrieved 26 August 2025.
  6. ^ a b Krishna, Priya (31 October 2024). "What's Red and Green and Served All Over?". The New York Times. Archived from the original on 29 March 2025. Retrieved 24 August 2025.
  7. ^ a b c Haskell, Rob (15 May 2019). "What's Next for Gabriela Cámara? A New L.A. Restaurant—And Foray into Politics". Vogue. Archived from the original on 13 July 2019. Retrieved 13 July 2019.
  8. ^ Toledo, Jorge (4 October 2013). "Y el éxito sigue: Contramar" [And the success remains: Contramar]. El Economista (in Spanish). Archived from the original on 25 December 2025. Retrieved 27 August 2025.
  9. ^ Quine 2017, p. 52.
  10. ^ a b c Moskin, Julia (4 June 2019). "This Mexican Chef Is Having a Very Good Year". The New York Times. Archived from the original on 26 July 2025. Retrieved 23 August 2025.
  11. ^ Barajas, Joshua; Brown, Jeffrey (29 January 2021). "How chef Gabriela Cámara had to adapt her restaurant for the pandemic". PBS. Archived from the original on 14 April 2025. Retrieved 23 August 2025.
  12. ^ a b Brown, Corie (23 February 2005). "Mexico City's new wave of chefs generates heat". Los Angeles Times. Archived from the original on 21 April 2025. Retrieved 23 August 2025.
  13. ^ a b c Armstrong et al. 2022, p. 204.
  14. ^ Pérez, Vanessa (2 September 2023). "El restaurante Contramar celebra sus 25 años" [Contramar restaurant celebrates its 25th anniversary]. El Universal (in Spanish). Archived from the original on 4 September 2023. Retrieved 24 August 2025.
  15. ^ Adler, Tamar (August 2017). "How Female Chefs Are Changing Restaurant Kitchen Culture". Vogue. Archived from the original on 31 January 2023. Retrieved 27 August 2025.
  16. ^ "Chef's Night Out: Contramar". Munchies. Vice Media. 15 June 2015. Archived from the original on 24 February 2025. Retrieved 23 August 2025.
  17. ^ "Contramar". Bon Appétit. Archived from the original on 3 April 2025. Retrieved 26 August 2025.
  18. ^ Schultz, Emily (19 October 2019). "When You Can't Get Into Contramar, Entremar Has Your Back". Bon Appétit. Archived from the original on 26 March 2023. Retrieved 24 August 2025.
  19. ^ Wright, Johnathan L. (22 December 2025). "Las Vegas' most anticipated restaurant openings for 2026". Las Vegas Review-Journal. Retrieved 30 December 2025.
  20. ^ Hill 2009, p. 162–168.
  21. ^ a b Parker Stainback, Michael (18 July 2014). "Review: Contramar". Afar. Archived from the original on 18 February 2025. Retrieved 23 August 2025.
  22. ^ a b Lindeman, Scarlett. "Contramar". Condé Nast Traveler. Archived from the original on 24 August 2025. Retrieved 26 August 2025.
  23. ^ Camacho, Mariana (10 March 2025). "Contramar". The Infatuation. Archived from the original on 9 February 2025. Retrieved 24 August 2025.
  24. ^ Helou et al. 2017, pp. 53–62.
  25. ^ Lindeman, Scarlett (28 March 2018). "The Best Healthy Restaurants in Mexico City". Bon Appétit. Archived from the original on 13 May 2018. Retrieved 5 October 2025.
  26. ^ Guevara, Guillaume (29 August 2024). "Entremar". The Infatuation. Archived from the original on 25 December 2025. Retrieved 26 August 2025.
  27. ^ Poblete Ritschel 2020, p. 60.
  28. ^ "#MexBest: Estos son los mejores hoteles y restaurantes de México" [#MexBest: These are the best hotels and restaurants in Mexico City]. Quién (in Spanish). 12 February 2020. Archived from the original on 4 October 2024. Retrieved 27 August 2025.
  29. ^ Flynn, Hansche & Yagoda 2023, p. 84.
  30. ^ "Contramar". Michelin Guide. Archived from the original on 15 May 2024. Retrieved 24 August 2025.
  31. ^ Sibaja, Emma (14 May 2024). "Los restaurantes con estrellas Michelin en México" [The Michelin-starred restaurants in Mexico]. GQ (in Spanish). Archived from the original on 4 June 2025. Retrieved 3 June 2025.

Works cited

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  • Armstrong, Kate; Bartlett, Ray; Butler, Stuart; Harrell, Ashley; Hecht, John; Kaminski, Anna; Masters, Tom; Prado, Liza; Richmond, Simon; St Louis, Regis; Tang, Phillip (2022). Lonely Planet Mexico 17. Lonely Planet. ISBN 9781787017160. OCLC 1294684977.
  • Bernstein, Nils (June 2013). "Mexico City's Moment". Bon Appétit. Vol. 58, no. 6. ISSN 0006-6990.
  • Martineau, Chantal (March 2016). "Your Guide to Mexico City". Sunset. Vol. 236, no. 3. ISSN 0039-5404.
  • Flynn, Sean; Hansche, Melanie; Yagoda, Maria (May 2023). "World's Best Restaurants". Food & Wine. Vol. 46, no. 4. ISSN 0741-9015.
  • Groen, Danielle (October 2016). "A Novel to Take On". Chatelaine. Vol. 89, no. 10. p. 26. ISSN 0009-1995.
  • Helou, Anissa; Guzmán, Pilar; Petrini, Andrea; Needleman, Deborah; Prior, David (October 2017). "Where in the World to Eat". Condé Nast Traveler. Vol. 52, no. 9. ISSN 0893-9683.
  • Hill, Kendall (November 2009). "New-Wave Mexico". Gourmet Traveller. Vol. 9, no. 11. ISSN 1034-9006.
  • Poblete Ritschel, Claudio (2020). Guía MG México Gastronómico Los 120 restaurantes 2020: Culinaria Mexicana/S. Pellegrino/Nespresso. Larousse Cocina. ISBN 978-6072120570.
  • Quine, Oscar (30 January 2017). "Play it cool in Mexico City". Evening Standard. ISSN 1472-5223.

Further reading

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Wikimedia Commons has media related to Contramar.