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Dolma

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Dolma
Whole stuffed pepper and tomato dolma
CourseAppetizer or main dish
Region or stateEastern Mediterranean, Balkans,[1] Levant, Anatolia or Turkey, South Caucasus (Armenia, Azerbaijan, Georgia), Iraq, Greece, Albania, Cyprus, Kosovo, Iran, Central Asia, Saudi Arabia, Algeria, Egypt, Libya.
Serving temperatureHot or room temperature
Main ingredientsVaries
Variationsvegetables, seafood, fruit, offal
  • Cookbook: Dolma
  •   Media: Dolma
Dolma making and sharing tradition, a marker of cultural identity
CountryAzerbaijan
Reference01188
RegionEurope and North America
Inscription history
Inscription2017 (12th session)
ListRepresentative

Dolma is any of a family of stuffed dishes largely associated with Ottoman cuisine, typically made with a filling of rice, minced meat, offal, seafood, fruit, or any combination of these inside either a leaf wrapping or a hollow or hollowed-out vegetable (e.g. a bell pepper). The leaf-wrapped type can be specifically known as sarma. Less commonly, both fruits and meat (particularly offal) may also be stuffed with similar fillings. Dolma can be served warm or at room temperature and are common in modern cuisines of regions and nations that once were part of the Ottoman Empire.[2]

Etymology

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The word dolma is of Turkish origin and means "something stuffed" or "filled".[3][4] It derives from the verb dolmak, which itself ultimately derives from the Old Turkic tolmak.[5] Gerard Clauson identifies the verbal root tol- ("to be filled, or full") as widely attested in pre-thirteenth-century Turkic texts and as surviving across the modern Turkic languages with similar meanings.[6]

One of the earliest attestations of the word dolma appears in Thesaurus Linguarum Orientalium, Turcicæ, Arabicæ, Persicæ (1680) by Franciscus a Mesgnien Meninski, where the Ottoman Turkish form طولمه (dolma) is recorded with the Latin definition ripieno ("stuffed" or "filled").[7] The earliest written mention of dolma in English dates to the late 19th century, appearing in James William Redhouse’s A Turkish and English Lexicon (1890), which defines it as "an act of filling" and “a dish of meat, fruit, or vegetable, filled with rice, forcemeat, etc.”[8]

In addition to modern Turkish, dolma is the standard spelling in Azerbaijani and the romanization of the Western Armenian spelling դոլմա, which in Eastern Armenian is տոլմա (tolma). Related forms in other languages include Greek ντολμάς (ntolmás), Arabic ضُلْمَة (ḍulma), Persian dolmeh, Georgian ტოლმა (ṭolma), and Tatar тулма (tulma).

In Armenia, a wild grapevine can be found, called toli in Armenian, the name of which is derived from the Urartian word uduli, meaning "grape" or "vine".[9][10] The etymology of the Armenian dolma or tolma possibly comes from or is additionally influenced by the old root toli.[11]

In Turkey, a distinction is made between dolma ("stuffed thing"), referring to hollowed vegetables filled with a stuffing, and sarma (“rolled thing”), in which the filling is wrapped in edible leaves such as vine leaves or cabbage.[12] In many other languages of the former Ottoman territories and beyond, this distinction is less strictly maintained, and dolma may be used more broadly to include dishes in which the filling is wrapped by leaves that would be classified as sarma in Turkish.[13] Others adapted Turkish terminology in other ways. For example, while the Turkish term yaprak sarması denotes stuffed vine leaves, in some regions the borrowed word yaprak ("leaf") is used alone to refer specifically to stuffed vine leaves rather than leaves in general. In several Arabic-speaking countries, yaprak is combined with native terms meaning “stuffed”, such as maḥshī yabraq or maḥshī brag in Syria and Kuwait.[12]

Meatless varieties of dolma, typically filled with seasoned rice, are known in Turkish as yalancı dolma (“fake” or “counterfeit dolma”).[12][14] The term reflects an older culinary convention in which vegetarian dishes were regarded as substitutes rather than "genuine" dishes in medieval Islamic societies, as Islam does not prescribe abstention from meat on any occasion.[14] Arabs referred to such dishes as muzawwaj (“counterfeit”), a concept that persisted in Turkish.[14] Related forms of the term are used in several other languages, including Arabic يالانجي (yalanji), Greek ντολμαδάκια γιαλαντζί (ntolmadákia gialantzí), Armenian յալանչի դոլմա (yalanchi tolma), and Georgian იალანჩი ტოლმა (ialanchi tolma).

Some dishes of Armenian cuisine with Turkic names are also found across Turkey and other countries, making it difficult to determine the true national origin of such dishes.[15]

History

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Early history

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The exact origin of dolma is disputed.[16] Stuffing vegetables has been practiced in Mediterranean and West Asian cuisines for centuries.[12][17][18] Some of the earliest surviving recipes describing meat-stuffed vegetables appear in the Roman cookbook Apicius, compiled in late antiquity.[19] It includes instructions for cucumbers that are peeled, parboiled, stuffed with forcemeat, and then cooked in broth or wine sauce.[19]

By the medieval period, cookbooks from the Islamic Golden Age provide detailed descriptions of stuffed vegetable dishes. A 13th-century Arabic cookbook Kitāb al-ṭabīẖ from Al-Andalus and the Maghreb contains several recipes for eggplants.[20] These describe techniques such as hollowing the eggplants, reserving the tops, stuffing them with minced meat often combined with breadcrumbs, eggs, herbs, and spices, and then restoring their original shape, sometimes securing the tops with wooden skewers.[20] Cooking methods included baking, boiling, frying, and stewing in seasoned sauces.[20] Similarly, the Syrian cookbook Kitab al-Wuslah ila l-habib from the same period includes multiple recipes for ridged cucumbers stuffed with seasoned meat and cooked in broth, fat, and aromatics.[21]

Ottoman period

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During the Ottoman period, stuffed vegetables, later known as dolma, became one of the most loved and diverse categories of Ottoman cuisine.[22] They evolved from just onions and apples to a wide range of vegetables and leaves over the following centuries, with meat often used as a secondary element and some varieties prepared entirely without meat by the late 18th century.[22] Dolma remains a traditional dish that has changed little since Ottoman times.[23]

The earliest recorded stuffed dishes in Ottoman sources date to the 15th century and include stuffed onions, apples, tripes, quinces, and spleens.[24][25][26][27] Following the Ottoman expansion into the Arab regions in the 16th century,[28] food historian Lilia Zaouali notes that a new cuisine evolved that gradually abandoned medieval stews and emphasized roasted meats, stuffed vegetables, and eggplant-based dishes.[29] She notes that this cuisine influenced Greek, Balkan, and Arab cuisines, contributing in particular to the popularization of stuffed eggplant dishes in eastern Arab countries.[29]

During the 16th century, the repertoire of Ottoman stuffed dishes expanded considerably, encompassing a wide range of vegetables such as gourds, vine leaves, cabbages, carrots, unripe zucchinis, plum leaves, eggplants, and pumpkins, as well as lamb.[25][24] Stuffed dishes became a hallmark of Ottoman cuisine, and by the 17th century Istanbul had approximately 50 cookshops known as dolmacı specializing in stuffed vegetables.[24] This period also saw the appearance of additional varieties, including stuffed fish (including mackerels, northern red snappers, bonitos, goatfishes, pacific blue-eyes, common pandoras, and cuttlefish) as well as stuffed watermelons, luffas, and borage leaves.[25][30][31][32][33][34]

The introduction of New World crops to the Ottoman Empire from the 18th century onward led to further diversification of dolma, with new varieties incorporating leeks, spinach, quinces, Armenian cucumbers, okras, and Jerusalem artichokes.[25][35][36] In the 19th century, dolma continued to evolve and diversify, extending to additional fruits, leaves, and meats, including melons, ribs, squash, turnips, ducks, bitter tomatoes, red tomatoes, bell peppers, and the leaves of hazelnut, quince, bitter tomato, and morello cherry.[25][37][38][39][40][41][42]

Several food historians have associated dolma with Ottoman court cuisine. Alan Davidson, a British diplomat and food writer, links both the widespread distribution of stuffed vegetables across former Ottoman territories and the term dolma itself, to the court cuisine of the Ottoman Empire, observing that while vegetables had been stuffed in pre-Ottoman times, "it was in Istanbul that stuffed vegetables were first treated as a regular culinary genre".[12]

Claudia Roden, one of the most respected and admired food writers, similarly associates the development of stuffed vegetable dishes with Ottoman court cuisine. She notes that stuffed vegetables do not appear in the very early Persian and Arab manuscripts, but were known by the time of the Ottoman Empire and served at the lavish banquets of the sultans.[43] While emphasizing that the precise origin is uncertain and contested, Roden describes stuffed vegetables as a form of “court cuisine” developed for a wealthy and powerful leisured class.[43] She argues that the lengthy and elaborate preparation of these dishes, together with the skilled and delicate handiwork involved in their making, indicates the presence of numerous specialized cooks in large palace kitchens, while the harmony between vegetables and fillings reflects the refined taste and culinary knowledge of their masters.[43] Roden further observes that domestic households adapted stuffed vegetable dishes to economic constraints by simplifying fillings while preserving the time-consuming methods of preparation, noting that such dishes came to serve as a means of demonstrating culinary skill and presentation to guests.[43]

William Pokhlebkin, a specialist on culinary history and cookbook author, contends that the dish's inception traces back to Armenian culinary heritage:[15]

"From the 17th to the early 19th century, Armenia was divided between Turkey and Iran. During this period, Armenia's economy, its human and material resources declined, but its spiritual and material culture remained unchanged, and Armenian cuisine did not perish. On the contrary, Armenians contributed to the cuisine of the Seljuk Turks, so many truly Armenian dishes later became known in Europe through the Turks as, allegedly, Turkish cuisine (for example, dolma)."[15]

Several dolma recipes were recorded in 19th-century Iran by Naser al-Din Shah Qajar's chef, including stuffed vine leaves, cabbage leaves, cucumbers, eggplants, apples, and quinces, with varied fillings prepared with ground meat, sauteed mint leaves, rice and saffron.[44] Iraqi Jewish families have a version of dolma with sweet and sour flavors that were not found in other versions.[45] Dolma are part of cuisine of the Sephardic Jews as well.[46] Jews in the Ottoman Empire used locally grown grape leaves and adopted the Turkish name of the dish.[47]

During winter months cabbage was a staple food for peasants in Persia and the Ottoman Empire, and it spread to the Balkans as well. Jews in Eastern Europe prepared variations of stuffed cabbage rolls with kosher meat—this dish is called holishkes. As meat was expensive, rice was sometimes mixed in with the meat. Jews in Europe would sometimes substitute barley, bread or kasha (barley porridge) for the rice.[47] There are similar Slavic cabbage rolls: golubtsy in Russian, holubtsi in Ukrainian, gołąbki in Polish.

In the Persian Gulf, basmati rice is preferred, and the flavor of the stuffing may be enhanced using tomatoes, onions and cumin.[17] Cabbage rolls entered Swedish cuisine (where they are known as kåldolmar) after Charles XII, defeated by the Russians at the battle of Poltava, returned to Sweden in 1715 with his Turkish creditors and their cooks.[48]

Distribution

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Dolma dishes are found in Balkan, West Asian, North African and Central Asian cuisine.[49][50][51][2]

In 2017, dolma making in Azerbaijan was included in the UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage Lists.[52] According to historian William Pokhlebkin, Azerbaijani dolma was adopted from neighboring Armenian cuisine.[53]

The culture of tolma preparation and consumption is included in the intangible cultural heritage list of Armenia.[54]

Stuffed green pepper and zucchini
Armenian dolma

Variants

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There are many varieties of dolma with olive oil and clarified butter. The olive oil based dolmas are usually stuffed with rice and served cold with a garlic-yogurt sauce, but variations with meat based fillings are served warm, often with tahini or avgolemono sauce.[55][56]

Stuffed vine leaves

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Stuffed vine leaves served with yogurt

The origins of stuffed vine leaves, or sarma, are unknown. They can be made with meat or grain fillings, and served with garlic yogurt, tarbiya or sweet and sour sauces made with pomegranate syrup and sour cherries. They are known as dolmeh in Iran, dolmades in Greece, koupepia in Cyprus, tolma sardu or terevor tolma in Armenia,[57] yarpaq dolması in Azerbaijan,[58] and yebra in Syria.[59][60] Egyptians call it mahshi waraq enab (محشي ورق عنب),[61] this version of dolma, or mahshi as it is called in Egypt, is typically eaten during the summer.[62] Stuffed vine leaves without any meat, called yalanchi dolma in Turkish and Western Armenian, are served at room temperature.

Cabbage rolls

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In several countries, cabbage rolls are stuffed with beans and tart fruits. It is wrapped with cabbage leaves, and stuffed with red beans, garbanzo beans, lentils, cracked wheat, tomato paste, onion and many spices and flavorings. Cabbage rolls are called Pasuts tolma (պասուց տոլմա) (Lenten dolma) in Armenian where they are of seven different grains – chickpea, bean, lentil, cracked wheat, pea, rice and maize.[citation needed] Armenian cooks sometimes use rose hip syrup to flavor stuffed cabbage rolls.[63] Cabbage rolls are also known as kələm dolması in Azerbaijan.[58] During winter in Egypt cabbage is traditionally used to make mahshi; these cabbage rolls are called mahshi kromb (محشي كرمب).[62]

Vegetables

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Stuffed onions with yoghurt
Lift mahshi, stuffed turnip in the Palestinian style

Soğan dolması (soğan means "onion" in Turkish), lts’onats sokh (Armenian: լցոնած սոխ; meaning “stuffed onion”), or stuffed onions, are a traditional dish in Turkey, Armenia and Bosnia. The ingredients include onions, minced beef, rice, oil, tomato purée, paprika, vinegar or sour cream, strained yogurt, black pepper, salt and spices. After the onion's skin is removed, the larger, external, layers (leaves) of onion bulbs are used as containers, so-called "shirts" for the meat stuffing. The remaining part of the onion is also used, mixed with the meat and fried on oil for a couple of minutes, to obtain the base of the stuffing. To extract the separate "shirts", the entire bulbs are cut on the top and then boiled until soft enough to be pried off, layer by layer. In order to prevent a further softening and crumbling, the bulbs should be blanched. The "shirts" are removed from the bulbs by slow and gentle finger pressure. Filled "shirts" are boiled slowly at low heat in broth. The level of liquid should be sufficient to cover the dolmas entirely. Onion dolma are usually served with dense natural yogurt.[citation needed]

Stuffed peppers (Armenian: լցոնած բիբար, Greek: γεμιστές πιπεριές, Turkish: biber dolması) are common in many cuisines, while mostly popular in Armenia, Greece and Turkey. Bell peppers are hollowed and filled with rice, herbs, onions, currants and optionally raisins. The Armenian version adds tarragon, mint, walnuts and/or pine nuts to the stuffing.[citation needed] In the cuisine of the Crimean Tatars, dolma refers to peppers stuffed with minced lamb or beef, rice, onion, salt, pepper. Carrots, greens, tomato paste, and spices can be added to the filling. When grape leaves are stuffed with the same filling, however, they are called sarma.

Stuffed turnips are popular in Jordan and the West Bank (notably in Hebron and as-Salt). The turnips are stuffed with spiced rice and minced meat and are lightly fried before being cooked in a tamarind sauce.[64]

Mülebbes dolma is a historic recipe from the Ottoman era.[65] Şalgam dolma are stuffed Russian turnips.[66][67]

Enginar dolması is stuffed whole artichoke hearts. They may be stuffed with seasoned rice or ground meat cooked in fresh tomato sauce with aleppo pepper.[68] Celery root may be substituted for the artichoke.[69]

Eggplant dolma is a dish popular in a few countries. In Armenia, It is called lts’onats smbuk or smbukov dolma (Armenian: լցոնած սմբուկ or սմբուկով դոլմա) and is traditionally made with hollowed eggplant that is filled with rice, meat, herbs (tarragon, mint, parsley, coriander) onions, currants, walnuts or pinenuts and optionally raisins. While another version prepares the filling with onions, garlic, tomatoes, cinammon, allspice, cumin, turmeric, black pepper, apricots and pomegranade seeds. There also is an Armenian version making this dish using the dried skin and outer layer of an eggplant.[citation needed] In Turkey, this dish is called Halep dolması, named after Aleppo. It is a dish of eggplants stuffed with a meat and rice filling that is flavored with spices and either sour plum flavoring syrup or lemon juice.[70][71] In the Arab world, this dish is known as makdous (Arabic: المكدوس). It is a dish of oil-cured aubergines. These are miniature, tangy eggplants stuffed with walnuts, red pepper, garlic, olive oil, and salt. Sometimes chilli powder is added.

A regional specialty from Mardin is a mixed dolma platter. The sumac and Urfa pepper seasoned rice filling is first wrapped with onion layers, vine leaves, and cabbage. The remainder of the rice is used to fill eggplant, zucchini, and stuffing peppers. The wrapped onion dolma are added on the bottom of a deep cooking pot and the stuffed vegetables, cabbage rolls, and stuffed vine leaves are layered on top of the onion dolmas. The entire pot of dolmas are cooked in sumac flavored water.[72]

Different forms of stuffed carrots are popular in some cuisines in West Asia, such as Armenian and Palestinian cuisine, usually they stuffed with rice and ground meat, and are cooked in tamarind sauce.[73][74][75]

Seafood

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There are also seafood variants of dolma. Stuffed mussels (Armenian: Լցոնած միդիա, or Միդիա տոլմա; Turkish: Midye dolma) may be filled with rice, onion, black pepper, allspice, lemon juice, pine nuts and salt.[76]

The filling for stuffed squid[a] is made from halloumi cheese, onion, breadcrumbs, garlic and parsley. The whole tentacle is stuffed with the mixture and fried in a butter, olive oil and tomato sauce. For another variation a whole small squid may be stuffed with a bulgur and fresh herb mixture and baked in the oven.[78]

Stuffed mackerel (Turkish: Uskumru dolma, Armenian: լցոնած սկումբրիա), or stuffed trout (Armenian: լցոնած իշխան) are staples of Armenian and Turkish cuisine. While the trout (typically sevan trout) version is more specific to Armenia. The version that was traditionally prepared by Armenian cooks is particularly well-regarded. After the fish is prepared by carefully separating the skin from the meat, the meat is sauteed with onions, currants, dried apricots, almonds, hazelnuts, pine nuts, walnuts, cinnamon, cloves, allspice, ginger, fresh herbs and lemon juice. The entire mixture is stuffed into the whole, intact skin, or grape leaves. The stuffed mackerel is then either baked or preferably grilled long enough to brown the skin.[78][79]

Stuffed sardines (Greek: σαρδέλες γεμιστές or σαρδέλες παντρεμένες) are often filled with kasseri cheese, tomato, onion, basil and parsley.[80]In Greece and Turkey, stuffed sardines may be served as a mezze platter at traditional eateries called taverna, or meyhane.[81][82]

Offal

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Dalak dolması is spleen stuffed with rice, meat and herbs. It may be served as a meze, paired with rakı. The dish originates in Armenian cuisine, and is a traditional Armenian Orthodox New Year dish, served with anoushabour and chi kufta.[83][84][85] Diyarbekir-style dalak dolması is made with lamb and lamb's tail fat; it was registered as a geographical indication by the Turkish Patent and Trademark Office in October 2021.[86]

Mumbar dolması is intestine stuffed with a moist mixture of ground meat, rice, pepper, cumin and salt. The stuffed intestine is then boiled in water until it is cooked thoroughly, after which it may be sliced and fried in butter before serving.[87]

Fruit-based dolmas

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There are some fruit-based dolmas as well like stuffed quinces (Armenian: լցոնած սերկևիլ, Persian: دلمه به, Turkish: Ayva dolması). There are many variations of this dish. One has a rice and currant filling, flavored with coriander, cinnamon and sugar.[88] Another variation uses meat and bulgur to stuff the quince that is then flavored with grape syrup.[89] Armenian stuffed quinces specifically are made with quince, minced meat or cubed meat, onion, rice, pine nuts or walnuts, raisins, apricots, cinnamon, grape syrup, allspice, cloves, pepper, salt and butter.[90] This type of stuffed quinces is called Etchmiadzin Dolma.[citation needed] Iranian stuffed quinces are made with quince, minced meat or cubed meat, almond, pistachio, barberry, butter, cardamom, coriander, tarragon, plum, onion, saffron, salt, pepper, turmeric and cinnamon.[91] Grape syrup is also an ingredient in the meat-based variants of stuffed apples. and stuffed yellow plums.[92] Persian Jews may serve stuffed quince, called dolma bay, as a Sabbath meal or during Sukkot.[93]

Stuffed apples (Armenian: լցոնած խնձոր, Persian: دلمه سیب, Turkish: Elma dolması) are mostly popular in Armenia, Iran and Turkey. Turkish stuffed apples are made from cubed lamb, ground lamb, rice, black pepper and sumac-flavored grape syrup. Dried apricots and blanched almonds are added to the pot near the end of the cooking process. Armenian stuffed apples are made with apples stuffed with minced meat, parsley, mint, tarragon, black pepper, salt, raisins, apricots, walnuts, allspice, cinnamon, sumac, cumin, sumac-flavored grape syrup, sautéed onions and garlic. This type of stuffed apples is called etchmiadzin dolma as well.[citation needed] Iranian stuffed apples are made with apples that are stuffed with onion, turmeric, cloves, butter, minced meat, rice, cinnamon, pepper, grape syrup, lemon juice, and brown sugar. A meatless variant of the filling for stuffed apples is made from a sauteed mixture of diced apples, diced pears, walnuts, hazelnut, currants, cinnamon, cloves, and star anise. The hollowed out apples are stuffed with the mixture and baked in the oven. This version may be garnished with powdered sugar. This version is most popular in Armenia and Turkey.

Stuffed melons were part of the Ottoman palace cuisine. The recipe survives in modern Turkish, Yemenite, Iranian and Armenian cooking.[94]

Other variations

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Stuffed sorrel (Armenian: ավելուկով տոլմա or սալորի տերևներով դոլմա, Turkish: Labada sarması or Evelik Dolması) is a generic name for meals made of sorrel leaves stuffed with meat (lamb) and rice, or more rarely rice only.[95]

Stuffed mallow (Kurdish: Melûkîyê tije kirî or Dolma ya melûkîyê; Arabic: خبازة محشية; Hebrew: עלי חלמית ממולאים, romanized: Aley Ḥalmith Meemou'laim; Turkish: Ebegümeci sarması) is a generic name for dishes made of mallow leaves, stuffed with meat (lamb) and rice, or, more rarely, rice only. Other names are Mallow Sarma or Mallow Dolma. It is mostly popular in Kurdistan (Kurdish populated regions) Israel, Lebanon, Syria, Turkey, Palestine and the Balkans, where it may be served with yogurt.[96][97]

Religious celebrations and customs

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It is customary for Jewish families to eat holishkes cabbage rolls on Simchat Torah.[47]

Assyrians prepare meatless dolmas for Lent.[98] When traditional ingredients are not available, the Armenian Christian community in West Bengal, India celebrates Christmas with potoler dorma, a local variation from Anglo-Indian cuisine.[99] Stuffed vegetables called gemista or tsounidis are also common in Greek cuisine.[48]

Muslim families often serve dolma as part of the iftar meal during Ramadan and during the Eid al-Fitr celebrations that mark the end of the holy month. Large pots of dolma are prepared during the Novruz festival.[100]

Controversy

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The origin of dolma is a subject of dispute in the region, particularly between Armenians and Azerbaijanis.[101][102] In Armenia, it is typically rolled into a tube, while in Azerbaijan it is folded into a small parcel.[101] In 2011, the president of Azerbaijan, Ilham Aliyev, stated at the annual conference of the country's Academy of Sciences that "if you ask an Armenian what ‘dolma’ means in their language, they will not be able to answer. It is a meaningless word for them."[103][102] In response, Armenia held its own dolma festival, using the term uduli as the festival's name.[103][102]

The Armenian side notes that the preparation of dolma requires grape leaves, which they consider evidence of early agricultural development; there is also archaeological evidence of viticulture and wine consumption in ancient Armenia.[103] Azerbaijani sources, in turn, point to a Turkic origin for the name of the dish.[103]

See also

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Notes

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  1. ^ Greek: Γεμιστό καλαμάρι/Καλαμάρι γεμιστό (yemisto kalamari/kalimari yemisto)
    Italian: Calamari ripieni
    Portuguese: Lula recheada
    Spanish: Calamares rellenos
    Tunisian: كلامار محشي (kalamar mihshi)[77]
    Turkish: Kalamar dolması

References

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Sources

[edit]
  • Alan Davidson, The Oxford Companion to Food. ISBN 0-19-211579-0.
  • Gosetti Della Salda, Anna (1967). Le ricette regionali italiane (in Italian). Milano: Solares.
  • Media related to Dolma at Wikimedia Commons